Château Haut-Brion Premier Cru Classé, Pessac-Leognan, 2023, 75clThe 2023 Haut Brion exhibits a more Cabernet inflected personality than the richer 2022, offering up a deep but youthfully reserved bouquet of dark wild berries, licorice, smoke and pencil lead mingled with notions of cigar wrapper, nicely integrated new oak and spices. Full bodied, deep and velvety, its layered and concentrated, with a deep core of fruit structured around abundant but velvety tannins, concluding with a long, controlled finish.